Field Course Sri Lanka 2025

This morning at 9:00 am, we met with Mr. Azmi Thassim, the Sri Lankan ambassador to Saudi Arabia from 2015 to 2019 and a member of the Hambantota Chamber of Commerce since its inception. The Hambantota Chamber of Commerce is the first district-level chamber in the country. He was the first president of the chamber in the 1990s, and since then there have been 15 presidents. Thassim explained the role of the Chamber of Commerce as lobbying for development of Hambantota. To do this, they work to support low to medium level businesspeople, while facing difficulty because Sri Lanka does not mandate that businesses must be affiliated with a chamber of commerce. The chamber supports businesses to access marketing tools, find skilled workers, and more. The chamber also works to support the women’s chamber, as they often face gender barriers, by creating a comfortable environment, and the youth community while they prepare to enter the business space. To try to help us better understand the environment in which the chamber works, Thassim explained the four different sectors in Sri Lankan Government: (1) Local government, (2) Provincial Government, (3) Parliamentary Government, and (4) Presidential Office. Thaissum expects there to be changes to this Sri Lankan government in the next 1-2 years, and advices that the new government must be careful in accepting loans. In regard to the Hambantota projects, Thassim stresses that the Hambantota Chamber of Commerce had minimal involvement and were not given time to discuss the changes. In his previous role as Ambassador, Thassim experienced a similar situation, he was given the power to inform the government of issues but not the power to make meaningful change. In his position at the Hambantota Chamber of Commerce, he works to be good voice for the businesspeople and the best representative of the private sector. When wrapping up our discussion, Thassim stressed the importance of maintaining institutional relationships rather than interpersonal ones, as he hopes to see the collaboration between the University of Agder and the Hambantota Chamber of Commerce continue past the collaboration between himself and Ajith.

Before lunch we visited the largest women-based NGO in Sri Lanka, the Women Development Federation. It was founded in 1989 and has since then tried to help empower families through the women of the households. The goal of the organization is «To become the greatest women’s organization in South Asia providing microfinance and social advancment services to empower distressed families». They do this by helping families economically, spiritually, socially and environmentally. Here are some examples of that: - Helping families economically by giving out loans for growing their businesses. - Different youth programs to help the younger generation utilize their time and potential better. - Social mobilization by informing people about why and how the organization can be helpful for them.

The focus of the organization is mainly on families that fall below the poverty line. Everyone can apply for membership but they have to buy 500 shares to begin with followed by a monthly fee of 50 rupees, which covers insurance. For every recognized village there are five women (mothers) who represents them and speak of the troubles the families are facing, while one of them, the president, takes it further as they are a part of the organization. Through all of the different levels in the organization, no men are involved. The money that are given to distressed families are given to the women as money handled by men can often be used to buy alcohol and satisfying addiction. They also help women with savings and loans and simplifying the economic processes they have to go through, especially if they have a business. When it comes to giving out loans to business-owners, the loan-takers first have to get a smaller loan, around 35,000 rupees and show their progress or success to be able to apply for a bigger one (max 500,000 rupees). Also, 5% of interest is given back to the loan-takers as a bonus for paying back the loan on time. We have percived this as a very effective, helpful and sustainable organization and are impressed by their work. They have helped families for many years now and we believe that they will keep helping families for years to come. The visit was completed with some local snacks, tea and a group photo.

We got the rest of the evening free, to relax and prepare for the homestays that will begin tomorrow. We will be staying with a host family for a couple of days where we will be doing interviews for our research topics, and experience the life of the locals.

Group 1 - Kaja, Andrea, Lorelei and Julia

The day started bright and early at 5am for those who wanted to go to Yala national park for a morning safari. The safari lasted for more than six hours and gave us the opportunity to see the wildlife up close. We were able to see animals like elephants, lizards, bears and deer, but no leopard this time. Today we were lucky with the weather as it was sunny almost the whole trip, and only started raining when we got back to the hotel.

Yala national park is the most popular park for safari in Sri Lanka, and was an animal sanctuary until 1938 when it was made into a national park. (https://www.yalasrilanka.lk/about-yala.html). The park is also the worlds biggest concentration of animals like elephants, leopard, bears and crocodiles. (https://www.yalasrilanka.lk/about-yala.html).

There was another option for those who didn't want to join the safari, who got the chance to join for a trip on the lake near our hotel. The goal for this trip was to catch some fish with fishing nets, but to no luck, as the fishing nets were forgotten. The lake, which is surrounded by mountains, has both crocodiles and leaches.

As this day was our only relaxing day, most of those who went on the safari used the rest of the day in the hotel area. At 6pm we were lucky enough to meet with former mayor of Hambantota, Gamini Sri Ananda, for a group discussion. He was the mayor of the town for two periods, the first starting in 2010, and the second under the financial crisis which went over the period 2020-2022. Under the discussion we were able to ask questions regarding our upcoming field work and report. We asked questions both regarding the Hambantota Development Project and migration to Middle Eastern Countries. The former mayor told us about the government and their involvement in the Development Project, and their lack of consideration for the locals. This discussion was a great ending to our relaxing day.

Group 6 - Gina, Azin, Kagnew, Siri

Due to the long travel form Sigiriya to Hambantota yesterday we started the day with a late breakfast at 10am, and left our new hotel a hour later. The first stop of the day were to the Mattala Rajapaksa International Airport (MRIA). This airport were built in 2013 during the Rajapaksa government, and even twelve years later the airport is neither finished or generating income for Sri Lanka. MIRA is funded by loans from China, and as of now the airport have two bridges, which they are planning on expanding to fourteen. Most of the fligths are to and from Russia, contributing to russians being the second highest amount of turists in Sri Lanka. During the tourist season the airport only have three flights a day, but during off-season it can decrease to as little as one fligth a week. Even with this low amount of fligths are there still 450 workers at the airport every day. This is creating many job opportunities, but also huge losses in order to pay the workers wages. The losses also affect the local community as russian travel companies plan entire traveles using hotels and areas opperated by russian companies. This results in the money going back to Russia, instead of the local community. As the secound international airport of Sri Lanka MRIA had a vision of being a contribution to the economic development in the Hambantota area, but ended up being more of a bruden.

Next we visited the Sooriyawewa International Cricket Stadium, also known under the name of Mahinde Rajapaksa International Cricket Stadium. The stadium were built for the 2011 Cricket World Cup, and hosted two games. During matches it has the capacity to host around 40.000 spectators. Since the opening of the stadium there have been hosted 16 international games, and the last were in 2019. The stadium were, like the MRIA, funded by Chinese loans, and costed lots of money. Even with the funds put into the stadium were a match between Australia and Sri Lanka scheduled for February 2025 moved to Colombo, due to the lacking infrastructure in the Hambantota area. There is a maintenance team upkeeping the gass of the stadium, however there are still several renevations needing to be made in order for the stadium to be ready for a new match.

After the stadium were ate lunch, before we headed to the last stop of the day, Magam Ruhunupura International Convention Centre (MRICC). This center were built from 2008 to 2013, and can be used for conferences and weddings. The huge venue have five entrances, two helipads, an outdoor theatre, two restaurants and a main hall. MRICC were funded by the Sri Lankan government, and costed 35 million USD. In addition the main hall were a gift from South Korea and costed 6 million USD. In order to earn back the money used to build the centre is the rent high costs, for example to rent the main hall it costs 1 million rupees for just 6 hours. However the high costs also maked the venue unavailable for many possible costumers. The plan further is to make a website and market the venue in order to start generating profits. In addition they also wants to reduce costs in order to make their accommodations more accessible to consumers. One of the changes they wish to make is powering the center through solar power in order to lower energy costs.

All of the installations we visited today were part of the development plan in the Hambantota area under the Rajapaksa government. However due to the lack of national policies, and governments working against each other, have these projects been neglected. These development efforts are also a great example of how FDIs are negatively affecting Sri Lanka’s development process.

After this we returned to the hotel were we saw wild elephants, which was very exciting! Then we ate dinner at the hotel, and most of us are preparing for an early morning tomorrow. This has been a very insightful day, and we look forward to the homestay in order to learn how these failed development projects have affected the local community in Hambantota.

Group 5 - Ada, Katrine, Lea & Anja

We started the day with a hike! We had the option to choose between two hikes. The class therefore split into two groups, where half of us went to Sigiriya rock and the other half went to Pidurangala. Before starting the hike, we went to Sigiriya´s museum where we were introduced to the history and archaeological findings. As mentioned in yesterday's post, The Sigiriya rock is one of the biggest tourist attractions in all of Sri Lanka. In addition, it is also part of UNESCO'S Heritage List. The rock was formed over approximately 2.5 million years ago. Some of the first archaeological evidence dates back to 7500 years ago. However, it is mainly the history from the King Kasyapa empire in the 5th century that remains.The locals have an inside joke that King Kasayapa brings more tourism income than the current president of Sri Lanka.

On our way to the top, we saw many of the archaeological remains from Kasayapa rule. For instance, we walked past the famous Lion paws, which are huge stone carved paws. It used to be a complete lion with a head, but sadly, it has faded away. The hike consists of 1200 steps, with newly constructed stairs laid over the historical and small stairs. We think it is a wonder how people managed to get up the rock without any safety equipment. At the very top, we could see the foundations of a former fortress.

On our way down, we walked past “the mirror hall”, which used to be a wall that was polished to the point where the King could mirror himself. Today, it is just an orange wall with graffiti. The last thing we saw before walking down again was a wall with paintings of different damsels. Archaeological experts think that the wall used to be plastered with 500 different figures. However, only 19 different female figures can be seen today.

The other half of the class went to the Pidurangala rock, another hike in which you could see the Sigiriya rock. This hike was not long either, but it was very steep in some places. The view from the top was beautiful, and we could see the rest of the class that went up the stairs on the Sigiriya Rock

After the hike, it was time to go visit a local village. When we arrived to the starting point for this activity, we realized we would be traveling by carriages pulled by cows. While we understood that this used to be a common form of transportation in Sri Lanka, and therefore can he considered a part of the local culture, many of us reacted to the way in which the cows were equipped with ropes through their noses and around their necks. This relationship between animal welfare and the cultural aspects of practices like this is a topic of debate in Sri Lanka. Another example of this, is how elephants are sometimes held captive as “pets” in some homes, which we have seen here in Sigiriya. While this is legal, animal rights activists are reacting strongly to this, due to the animals not being able to move freely and are kept in smaller areas. This is also the case in some temples in Sri Lanka, and it is important to also recognize that these elephants hold great significance for the culture and religion.

With this in mind, none of the students chose to use this form of transportation, and instead took tuktuks. Thereafter, we had a short catamaran ride over to the village. On the way we were shown a crocodile, but we are unsure if this was real or just a show for the tourists. In the village we were taught how to cook typical Sri Lankan foods such as rice and various curries. There were two women who demonstrated this, and as Ajith explained to us, it is common that women are encouraged to learn how to cook. However, while one could assume that men do more of “heavy” work, some of the household chores and kitchen activities require physical strength as well. An example is when making rice, which one if the women demonstrated to us, where one has to crush the rice with a large wooden pole. Finally, we were able to taste the food, which was delicious! We were served the rice and curries, but also fruit and sweet snacks for dessert. Then we headed back to the hotel, where we were able to relax and soak up some sun from the rooftop deck. Now we are ready to head towards Hambantota tomorrow, and are very excited for what is to come.

Group 3 Kristin, Martine, Rebecca, Signe

The first activity on today’s program was a lecture at The University of Jaffna, established in 1974. As today was a Saturday, there were not many students present on campus, but we got to meet some of them after our lecture and take pictures with them. Today's lecture was mainly about the economic crisis from a northern perspective but also touched upon politics, migration, and general information about the university. We were at the faculty of geography which teaches around 1200 students. As with the other universities we have visited, the number of girls attending (85%) is much higher than that of boys. The lack of interest in studies was explained by the prioritization and intrigue of making money. Another reason mentioned is the increase in drug abuse, which has become a significant problem in the last 10 years, especially among male students. When it comes to the economy in Jaffna, the lecturers mentioned an increase in tourism in the last 5 years. Several hotels have been built as a result, for example, the one we are staying at (J Hotels). Another interesting point made about the economy is how the second-generation migrants who moved from Sri Lanka to countries like Germany, Scotland, England, and so on do not send money back to Sri Lanka as the first-generation migrants did. The lecturers continued to discuss minority representation in politics as 95% of the people in Jaffna are Tamil speakers and therefore a part of the Tamil minority. Out of 225 MPs in the government, only 15 of them are Tamil. During the lecture, we had a nice snack, samosa and patties, alongside some typical sweet Sri Lankan tea.

After the lecture, we went back to our hotel to meet with the Angel Network - Jaffna Transgender Network - an LGBTQ+ rights activist community in Jaffna. They have been around for 5 years and are working with lgbtq+ rights and working to build community livelihoods for transgender, queer, and GNC (gender-non-confirming) individuals, and are mainly focusing on transgender rights. They are located in Jaffna but are also working with other Tamil-speaking places across the country. They started up in 2019 when 5-6 people had faced significant struggles at school etc. and wanted to prevent the same struggles for other trans people. The Jaffna society is very politically involved and it is a place for women and trans women who experience oppression in their daily lives. They are afraid to walk outside at night because they get hateful comments and get name-called, which truly damages their emotional well-being. The Angel Network organized the first pride parade in Jaffna, where many trans people, among others from the lgbtq+ community, from areas in Jaffna, and also from other parts of the country, marched. They all joined together for the same cause, and, over the years of this occurring, some of the police have become supportive. This annual event has opened up many more opportunities for people in the community and others to be able to feel safe and secure in their homes.

In the evening, we celebrated the Pongal festival (A harvest festival) with “Manudam” a local young leader’s association. Upon arriving, we were greeted by young children and adults, dressed in traditional clothing, and given paper flowers. We first took part in a ceremony where we boiled milk over a fire and danced around the pot. Following that ritual, we were ushered inside to watch both children and adults perform traditional dances, poems, and songs. We were then welcomed onstage to perform a song of our own, Ring Meg. During the performances, we were given a sweet pineapple-flavored drink and a sweet rice dish. After everyone at the ceremony shared a final dance together, we went outside to play some games. We played a game where one was to hit a pot with a stick while blindfolded, and a game where we were supposed to eat a whole bun without using our hands. The children also played musical chairs. After some group photos, we said our final farewells to the Manudam group. This was a very fun afternoon where we got to know and meet many children who showed us how to celebrate Pongal.

Written by: Lorelei, Andrea, Julia, and Kaja

Our day began with a lovely breakfast at the Sadula Holiday Resort. In this charming place, we had been staying for the past two nights, January 15th and 16th, during our time in Anuradhapura. The resort provided a peaceful, scenic setting that made for a relaxing start to the day, with a delicious and satisfying breakfast spread. Anuradhapura itself, as we had learned in greater detail during our visit the previous day, is one of the most historically significant cities in Sri Lanka. It served as the capital of the Kingdom of Sri Lanka 2,500 years ago (according to the explanation during the visit). The city is renowned for its rich cultural, religious, and architectural heritage, including the sacred Sri Maha Bodhi tree, the world's oldest historically documented tree, and the ancient Buddhist stupas and temples that gives beauty to the landscape. During our visit, we explored these historic sites and were given valuable insights into the city’s extraordinary role in shaping the country's history, religion, and culture.

The next day, after finishing our breakfast, we gathered our belongings, packed our bags, and prepared for the next leg of our journey. All of the students carefully loaded their luggage on two minibuses, and by 9:30 AM, we set off for Jaffna, a city located in the northernmost region of Sri Lanka. This would be our destination for the next two odays, and we were excited to explore a part of Sri Lanka that is known for its unique cultural identity, history, and cuisine. We were eager to discover what Jaffna had to offer and to experience a different side of the island.

Before heading directly to Jaffna, however, we had planned a meaningful stop at the “Win Against Violence” NGO, an organization supported by USAID that is dedicated to helping women and children who are victims of domestic violence. This visit proved to be incredibly impactful, as we were given a detailed and informative presentation about the vital work that the NGO does to support and empower survivors of abuse. The organization provides shelter for women and children who are seeking safety from abusive situations. The shelters offer a minimum of 14 days and up to three months of housing, where survivors are given access to psychological counseling, legal advice support, and vocational training, helping them to reintegrate into society and rebuild their lives. The NGO also helps its residents explore options for starting their own private businesses or finding sustainable employment.

One of the most powerful takeaways from the presentation was the fact that, although many victims reach out for help through the police, courts, or hospitals, there are still a large number of people who are suffering in silence. The organization emphasized how essential community collaboration is in addressing the issue, as local communities work together to support victims and spread awareness about the services available. The NGO holds regular community meetings every two months to discuss ongoing efforts and raise awareness, making it clear that a collaborative approach is critical in combating domestic violence. It was a truly eye-opening experience that shed light on an important issue, and we left the NGO feeling inspired by the dedicated work of the people involved in these efforts. The NGO has representatives from the governmental organization or higher officials, police and others for a better collaboration in the society.

Once our visit concluded, we continued our journey towards Jaffna. The bus ride itself was expected to take around four hours, as the distance between Mihinthalaya and Jaffna is approximately 190 kilometers. We set off around 10:30 AM and made our way down the road, enjoying the beautiful scenery along the way. After about two hours of travel, we decided to take a short break at a rest stop in Kilinochchi, a small town that is known for its Sri Lankan Army cafeteria. The cafeteria serves as a convenient pit stop for travelers heading to Jaffna, offering a place to relax, enjoy refreshments, and stretch our legs before continuing our journey. The area surrounding the rest stop also has a small shopping center, which provides a variety of souvenirs and snacks for both locals and tourists alike.

Following our break, we continued our drive, and as we made our way further north, we were treated to a fascinating sight. We passed over what is known as the smallest bridge in all of Sri Lanka, located along the stretch of road connecting the southern and northern parts of the island. This tiny bridge, situated between the divided sections of the ocean, stood out as a remarkable landmark and added an element of intrigue to the journey. It was a perfect reminder of how each corner of Sri Lanka has its own unique features, no matter how small they may seem.

By the time we arrived in Jaffna, it was just after 2 PM. We checked into our hotel, “J Hotels,” a modern and comfortable property that would be our home base for the next two days. The hotel provided us with a peaceful and comfortable place to relax after the long drive. Once we settled in, we enjoyed a delicious lunch at the hotel, which gave us a chance to unwind and recharge after the journey. The lunch was the perfect opportunity to connect with fellow travelers and reflect on the experiences we had already encountered. Afterward, we unpacked our belongings and had some free time to relax and explore the hotel or its surroundings at our leisure.

The evening was entirely free, which allowed us to explore Jaffna at our own pace. Some members of the group chose to venture out into the city to enjoy dinner at a local restaurant, eager to sample the unique flavors of Jaffna’s cuisine, which is known for its distinct combination of spices and ingredients. Others preferred to dine at the hotel, enjoying a more relaxed meal in the comfort of the hotel’s dining facilities. Regardless of where we chose to eat, the evening provided us with a sense of freedom and flexibility, allowing everyone to enjoy their time in the way that best suited them. After dinner, the group reconvened, and some of us spent time chatting or strolling around the hotel grounds, while others went to bed early to rest for the next day’s adventures.

As we closed out our day and settled into our rooms, we reflected on the experiences we had already gathered during our journey so far. From exploring the historical depths of Anuradhapura to learning about important social causes at the NGO, and experiencing the changing landscapes of Sri Lanka, we were all filled with anticipation for what was to come next in Jaffna. The following days promised to be full of new experiences and discoveries, and we all eagerly looked forward to the opportunity to immerse ourselves in the vibrant culture and history of Jaffna, as well as the sights and sounds of this remarkable part of the country.

With the evening winding down, we were all grateful for the moments of learning and growth we had encountered so far, and we couldn’t wait for the experiences that lay ahead. We had a sense of excitement and curiosity, knowing that our time in Jaffna would surely be filled with further exploration, education, and connection with the people and culture of the northern region of Sri Lanka. Ready for a fresh start, we went to bed, eager for what tomorrow would bring.

Prepared by :Gina,Siri,Azin and Kagnew

As this is our only full day in Anuradhapura we had originally planned for an early morning hike to Mihintale, which is a temple sitting on a mountain peak, to see the sunrise. Sadly, the weather had other plans and we had to postpone the hike due to rain to later in the day. On the good side we got a couple extra hours of sleep and ate a good breakfast at our hotel!

At 10 am, we got in the bus and had our first stop at Kaludiya Pokuna (Black Water Pool). There we saw some signs of early civilisation in Anuradhapura. Ajith explained to us how they had very good water and medical technology here, as there has been found equipment that was used in surgeries 2500 years ago. The advanced water technology they had in Anuradhapura at this early time, can raise questions about why Sri Lanka is a poor, developing country in contemporary times. This may be due to the fact that the this area was neglected due to a bigger focus on agriculture that could generate goods and wealth towards the colonial empires that colonised Sri Lanka (Abeywardana, N., et.al, 2018, p. 22).

We also learned about the backstory of the hike to the Mihintale temple we were about to take. The name of the temple stems from “Mahinda Thera” who according to ancient legends brought Buddhism to Sri Lanka. Before this the Sri Lankans worshiped nature such as rocks, the sun and the sky. On a high rock located by the Mihintale temple the king meet Buddhas wisdom through the munk Mahinda Thera for the first time. Some of the conversation is part of Sri Lanka’s ancient texts, and this significant event is considered the start of Sri Lanka’s Buddhist history.

We saw some of the remaining parts of the advanced water system they used in ancient times. One example we were told, was that the system was used when the Munks were given food from the King. Water came from the top of the mountain and was ushered down to their dinner area through small tunnels above the ground. This area also contained a huge rice bowl, which often was covered to keep the sun away, put this part was missing from the particular rice bowl that we saw. In addition, we also got to see indentations of parts of the original alphabet of Sri Lanka, however the signs has changed over time and today’s alphabet is not the same. It was a very beautiful hike and we got to see nice views of Anuradhapura and ancient ruins of the country.

Later in the day we went to City College of Business and Technology (CCBT) in the city centre of Anuradhapura. Here we got to interacts with teacher students and they had put on a beautiful show for us which included Kandyan dance performances. They served us traditional, local snacks and tea which was very nice after the hike. In return, Jenni gave a performance of Somebody To Love. This was not planned, and she deserves all the credit in the world for doing the performance with no way to plan it. To interact with the local students, Any put on a game as an icebreaker. It was very fun as we got to mix local and foreign students in a creative way. To end the session some of us got to try on the traditional Sarees the local students had brought. This was a very special experience.

To end the day some of us went to the Anuradhapura city centre for dinner, while some stayed at the hotel. It had been a great day and we have learned much more about Sri Lanka’s culture and history. This short stay in Anuradhapura has been very insightful for this trip, and we are looking forward for moving on to Jaffna tomorrow!

Group 5 - Katrine, Anja, Lea & Ada